This Old New Land

Bialik, Ben Gurion and Beyond--This Old- New Land

Herzl's two great works were The Jewish State and Altneuland.  The latter title was so brilliantly selected-- its theme reverberates everywhere in the country.

Our last two days in Israel.  Yesterday we went to visit the first Tel Aviv City Hall, now a museum of the history of the city with a great deal of emphasis on the first mayor, Meir Diezengoff and then to the home, two houses away of Haim Nahman Bialik, the poet laureate of the Jewish people.  Before that we had stopped by the home of David Ben Gurion--now a museum.

Bialik-- I think it is impossible to overestimate Bialik's importance in the revival of modern Hebrew in Israel (Palestine) in the early part of the 20th century.  I remember as a youngster in my Jewish day school in Chicago being required to memorize his poems.  His writings are vast--poetry, short stories, essays, children's stories and poems.

What struck me in his house was his vast Hebrew library--his deep learning in traditional Jewish writings was apparent.  His collection of midrashim was enormous Mekilta, sifre, sifra-- Midrash Rabbah, yalkutim of every variety.  His library also had Maimonides, Judah Ha-Levi, YD Eisenstein--collections of Medieval Hebrew poetry.  Bialik was steeped in the ancient and medieval literature of our people.  From the old--he is the symbol of the creation of a new Hebrew literature. 

Ben Gurion's house is essentially a few rooms built around a huge library--about ten thousand volumes.  Ben Gurion is reputed to have read every book in the collection and to know where each book was shelved.  (Aside-- we went there specifically to see two books by my Grandpa Goldman in the collection.  The librarians took them off the shelves for us--quite a thrill)  Ben Gurion was a keen student of philosophy, Bible and history.   We need his ilk today.

The people who built this place-- those Zionist patriarchs were so deeply learned, so cultured--wondrous by any standard.   They were living embodiments of an ancient culture that they were sifting through and refashioning to create a Jewish future. 

I am so blown away by this.  It's not that they decided one day to create a homeland .   They were building on a foundation of learning and sophistication-- they were giants.

We are the heirs to what they fashioned-- a nation among the nations.

We ended our final days visit with a walk through the Trumpeldor Cemetery-- the first cemetery in Tel Aviv.  Ahad Haam is buried here.  Bialik, Diezengoff, Tchernikovsky, Moshe Sharrett--and so many of the early luminaries all buried here.  The cemetery is beautiful and old and fragile sitting in the middle of vibrant, bustling, noisy Tel Aviv.

As we were leaving the cemetery, we stopped at a very large monument of 47 gravesites-- the memorial to the Jews killed in the Arab riots in Jaffa against the Jewish settlement in 1920.  It was so sad to see.

Again, we are the heirs to what they fashioned--many have died just so we can live here--"to be a free people in our home land..."

Herzl got it right-- Altneuland.  This is our old new land.  Whenever I leave Israel, it is with such sadness.  The problems here are enormous.  This place can confound my soul but I love it like no place else. 

More Thoughts From Israel

In a conversation with someone who lives there, they made the observation that for Israelis, religion is a "service industry."  We talked about that for a while.  The point is that for a secular Israeli the times that they come into contact with the religion of Judaism are such occasions as bris, bar mitzvah, marriage, etc.  The Israelis have their real lives but for these moments go to the religious "service industry" for what is required by the ministry of religion.

In our conversation we compared this to owning a car.  We own cars for what we want to do with them-- drive places--but we occasionally have to go for "servicing"--new brakes, oil change etc.

Side note-- I think this is why Israelis are not by and large enraged over the treatment of Women at the Wall.  They view women who want to pray with tallitot, etc. at the Wall as people who want to become part of that weird service industry that is so remote and tangential to their lives and feels alien even during the service interactions.  

Side note 2-One way that Reform and Conservative synagogues seem to become successful here is by taking a market share of the service industry--namely bar  mitzvah.  Then with a small percentage of the bar mitzvah families who become interested they are able to create viable communities.

Seeing this-- I see that American synagogues are also in the service industry--in no way to the same extent as in Israel.  Rabbis in America I think are respected much more than rabbis in Israel.  There is a much greater sense that a synagogue can be relevant and important to a person's life, that Judaism can be learned in an important way-- that there can be creativity and life in the synagogue--etc.

Still we hate the part of us that is viewed as service industry-

1. Why do we hate it?  Why do we care if for some people what we do is the prelim to a party?  Is it because it makes us feel like empty props?   Actors but not real?  It cheapens or mocks the sacred?  I think that is all part of it.  I also think that this is a question that is always worth thinking about...  Why do those of us on the inside of our faith--those of us who cannot imagine our lives without the nourishment that our Judaism provides us, view the religion of Judaism so differently than those on the outside?  What is missing?  Where is the disconnect?

2. I think we have two ways to respond to the "service industry" mentality.

Neither is easy--

A. The really hard one is by making the essences of Judaism self evidently important and sacred to people--  to open up Jewish wisdom, beauty, literature, art, music, spirituality to people--so that the Jewish life is intertwined with their own lives--to make Jewish identity--if you will- a vibrant animating feature of who they are.

This is perhaps the primary long range challenge of non-Orthodox American Judaism-- to create a compelling theology, narrative--a way for Jews to see the Jewish story as that which is a defining strand of their lives.

B.  The second is through relationships-- by creating personal relationships with people we change the nature of the "service industry" service--if you will.  Judaism is based in relationships--the essential Jewish model is the covenantal relationship.  Without relationships we become self obsessed--not healthy in any way. 

Religion in Israel Take 2

So, I was asked to make a presentation to the rabbinical class at HUC in Jerusalem--very nice.  I very briefly prepared a couple of texts--twenty minutes into the presentation I realized that it was going terribly. When I used the term "wissenschaft" to describe one way of analyzing a text and received blank stares in return, I realized that I had not connected with the group in any way.

Time to recalibrate-- so--we ended with a brief discussion on religion in Israel--I floated my theory.  Why don't Conservative and Reform Judaism make it here in any significant way? 

As I have thought about this question while here, I have thought about the role that churches play in America.  Robert Putnam, and so many others, point out that church in America is a place to socialize, make friends--be with people, etc.  In church you are not lonely.  Well---- Israel is the most socially connected place imaginable-- this country is one large tangled, interconnected web.  The thickness of relationships here is simply amazing.  Walk down any street in Tel Aviv--and besides seeing couples in the cafes, you see groups of men--everywhere talking, shmoozing, interacting.  Women are in groups also--but it is not as prevalent (why?).  Men have self formed social clubs: army buddies that they keep forever; high school friends stay friends forever.  There is a wonderful sense of camaraderie all across the country.  Our non-Orthodox congregations in Israel provide this social center place for the anglo-olim.  The natives don't need it.

No one in Israel needs a synagogue to be a place where one can exercise the Jewish part of oneself-- that happens by breathing the air and speaking the language.

As far as the synagogue being a place where people find purpose and meaning in their lives-- again -- Israel is a place filled with purpose and meaning.  The country wouldn't last without it.  I think that modern religion can make it in Israel-- the trick is to find a way to connect Judaism with the ethic of the country-- Zionism. 

Next Post--A Friday Night

Last night we had a typical Israel experience.  We went at 10:00 at night to an enormous restaurant in the area of the old Tel Aviv port to what might be called an Israel song fest.  Now--please keep in mind as you read this, that for Israel this was nothing special--these kinds of events happen weekly all over the country.  They are part of the culture--like going to a baseball game in America.

We entered a huge restaurant that had a tent next to it for expansion--the room filled up with hundreds of people-- we ordered food etc.  The singing began-- for over three hours--old songs of the yishuv, Purim songs, Israeli folk songs, psalm texts-- all Hebrew songs.  I knew maybe one-third.  They were songs expressing a love of the land of Israel--songs of the Jewish people-- the music was led by a performing artist-- Gabby Berlin--with a small support band.  He invited others to come join him on the stage, other known (and unknown) folk singers in the crowd.  EVERYONE IN THE CROWD WAS SINGING AND DANCING THE ENTIRE EVENING WITH GUSTO AND JOY.  It was beautiful.  They knew all of the songs--it was an amazing, warm, engaging experience--fun, exciting--simple joy of being alive and living in Israel--a land you love--a land whose history is your history and whose story you embrace. 

Academics might call this an example of Israel civil religion--I don't need anything so fancy--it was Israel culture celebrating, life, family country, land, friendship.  I loved it.  I want if for America.

So the singing went on for over THREE HOURS.  Louise and I left at about 1:20 A.M.  It was just about finished.

Israelis have a thick culture of love of country, devotion to each other.  THEY HAVE A NARRATIVE--A STORY and they sing and celebrate it all of the time.  Contrast this with an American baseball game where most people don't even sing the Star Spangled Banner before the game but stand there embarrassed and awkward. 

They have a story-- we in America have lost touch with our story and as American Jews--it is even more complicated.

This connection to land and people is so energizing and beautiful.  Without it, they could not send their sons and daughters to the army.  Israelis as a society simply seem to know what they are about in a way that seems so lacking in America.  On this--earlier in the week we spent time with another friend who  told us about his son's great disappointment that his asthma prevented him for serving in a combat unit in the army, but had been assigned to intelligence instead.  The son tried to appeal.  The father also felt some disappointment-saying something like "I understand this desire to serve, to give back to the country." Intelligence is also obviously needed--but the national ethic --to pull your weight, shoulder your share, etc.--and these friends are of the strong Left of the country-- Meretz type of voters.

There is nothing in this place that doesn't fascinate me.

It also gives me many thoughts about the American synagogue-- a future posting.

Thoughts From Israel-Feb 2013

Thoughts From Israel 

Hello Friends,

I am writing to you from our apartment in Tel Aviv.  After three lovely days in the Negev at a new Israeli "spa-resort," we drove to Tel Aviv and found our way to our place here.

Israel is always Israel-- wonderful and infuriating.  The resort-- is an incredibly lovely setting in the Negeb overlooking the Mactesh-- crater. In Mitzpeh Ramon.  The setting is a bit of a combination of the Badlands of South Dakota and the Grand Canyon-- although much, much smaller-- stunning in its beauty.

But as with Israelis--everyone at the hotel-spa acted like they were doing you a favor if you asked for something-- even as simple as a cup of coffee at breakfast.  so in Tel Aviv-- we pull up to the Eldan car rental location to return the car in downtown Tel Aviv to return the car-- we walk into the office to make the return and do the paperwork.  they ask me--"Where is the car?"  I point to it out in front and they tell me that it belongs in the lot across the street-- no mention of the lot across the street in any of the paperwork or instructions--just the address of the office We are standing in.  A big shrug and sigh-- We are standing there with suitcases and such---ok return here and then another scold.

The apartment is in a great location right on Dizengoff about two blocks from Diezengoff Center.  It is a duplex which makes it sound much fancier than it is.  The bedroom is upstairs with a beautiful roof balcony.  the lower level is a small sitting area, kitchen and another bedroom.  The furnishings are very simple.  The apt is clean and totally fine for the month we will be here.

My cousin, Pam--who lives in Tel Aviv who helped me find the apt spent part of the afternoon with us.  she is great and will spend part of tomorrow with us to show us the ropes.

The feeling here always borders on intense-more intense.  The news is filled with the Israeli air strikes on the weapons convoy from Syria to Lebanon-- bound for Hezbollah hands.  much speculation on what this means-- is Assad losing control and desperate to get the weapons out?  Is Hezbollah in over its head in support of Assad?  will there be more such attempted shipments thus dragging Israel more into the Syrian chaos?  If so, will Hezbollah retaliate by shooting into Israel?  This is all the talk of one days news--incessantly coming at us--even as Peres began the formal process of officially selecting Netanyahu to form a government.

Finally-- whenever I am here, I remember why I come here.  this evening Louise and I walked the streets of Tel aviv after dinner in a very small restaurant.  we were the only ones in the place.  we had found the small place on-line.  we were served by the owner-- one of those faces of Israel people.  He came here in 1950 at the age of five with his family from Turkey-- where else was a Jew to go in those years he asked me.  He showed us pictures of his family.  We spoke of how the country has changed since he was a little boy in a much smaller Tel Aviv.  He said that you can still walk the entire city all night and feel safe.  That hasn't changed.

Louise and I walked and walked.  as I saw all of the different faces and looks, I thought of a great line of Thomas Friedman that he wrote many years ago when he was covering the Olympics from China.  He wrote about the opening ceremony --something -along the lines of -- "When the Japanese team marched in they looked like Japan, when the team from Ethiopia marched in they looked like Ethiopia, when the Swedish team marched in they look like Sweden. And when the American team marched in they looked like all of them together.  There is real beauty in that.
Well-- one night on the streets of Tel aviv tells me that the  look of the Israeli team wouldn't be far behind.  Israel is where the Jewish people have come together.  That is why I love coming here-- and to make it really great-- they are all speaking Hebrew at the same time.

Signing off now-- sorry about all of the typos--even more than usual.  I am using the I-pad which I hate to type on.

Update 2

Hello All-

Another update--

We have now spent a couple of days visiting and talking with Israeli friends.  It is so enlightening.  My friends voted for Bibi--saying it was very simple.  One said, "Bibi makes me feel safe."  The other said that he does not like Bibi--he thinks Bibi is not a good person and not trustworthy but he knows how to handle security and right now--for him that is the priority. 

When I talk with this particular friend I very deeply feel the gap between Israel and so many American Jews.  There is no question that in order to understand this country you have to be here and speak with Israelis and listen to them.  A word about my friend (Srulik)--I have known him for forty years since I was in school here in 1972.  He is married to an even longer time friend of mine.  He was born in Israel as were his parents.  He has a PhD from an American university and has worked in Israel high tech for years.  He has taught at the Technion.

My friend speaks about the "little war" in Gaza in November.  He says that Bibi did everything masterfully.  He brought 100,000 soldier invasion force to the border but did  not invade.  He attacked from the air and since then the border has been quiet.

Srulik would never vote for Naftali Bennet because he wants peace.  He totally wants to return the West Bank to the Palestinians--he does not like settlements.  He says that the Palestinians are unable and unwilling to make a deal that any Israeli would accept.  As for Lapid-- e could not at this point vote for him-- no experience running anything except a TV show.  My friend greatly misses Rabin and says that Labor, Kadima etc need to find leaders with strength and vision.

We spoke for a long time this afternoon--more in my next e-mail.  We spoke at length about a favorite topic of mine--Israelis seem to have a culturally\socially imbued sense of purpose and meaning in their lives.  Americans, it seems to me go looking for meaning and purpose.  Whenever I am here I am captured by this somewhat mystical feeling.  They know what they are about in a way that we don't.

More on that another time--

Walking the streets-- this is why we need a Jewish country-- The street names--today I kept track of the streets I passed-- Queen Esther, Hasmoneans, Rothchild, Mapu, YL Gordon, Frishman to name a few.  Culture is embedded in the names to the streets.  For thise of you who do not know--Mapu was the Hebrew novelist of the Jewish enlightenment whose novel's Zionist themes inspired Ben Gurion.  Yl Gordon was a Hebrew poet in Russia--also of the Jewish enlightenment. Frishman was a 19th century Russian Jewish Hebrew writer and editor and somewhat of a an anti Zionist.  Walking the streets here is literally a walk through Jewish history.

Sigh-- this is just another reason why Jewish education in America is so hard--no context, no thickness.

We love being here--the weather is beautiful, the country so animated--nothing could be better!  Doing lots of great reading!!!!

Update number 3

Shabbat Afternoon

We are sitting on our balcony\porch looking out over Tel Aviv.  We are currently in the shade as at this point in the afternoon a high rise apartment building blocks our sun.  I would very much like the sun but the fact that Tel Aviv has high rise apartment buildings simply thrills me.  I am more than content.

Louise and I took a long walk this morning along the Tel Aviv beach to Jaffa.  The beach walkway on Shabbat is overflowing with activity--bikers, joggers, lovers, walkers, families with strollers.  The beach life has sun bathers, kids playing in the sand and even a some brave swimmers although the beaches are officially closed for winter.  The beach front cafes are jammed. 

I take it all in and think of how happy Herzl would be if he could see this--his dream come true--Tel Aviv-- the city named after his book Altneuland, the new city in the "old new land."

We walked and talked-

First-- you need a Jewish country for the important news stories.  The rabbis have decreed that burekas ( a Sephardic stuffed filo pastry) must be shaped according to whether they are meat or dairy to make it easier for the kosher consumer.  Dairy filled burekas must now be in a triangle shape.

Then--in a wonder of wonder-- the leading Haredi (ultra-Orthodox) rabbis did two stunning things-

1. They invited the leading religious Zionist rabbis to meet with them to press their claims for Yeshiva student army exemption.  The Haredi students do not do army service-- the Zionist ones of course serve.  According to the press, the meetings back fired as the Haredi rabbis are so insulated from the real world that they had no idea to invite that had any influence with the Naftali Bennet political party.

2. The Haredi rabbis are so panicked over this issue that the Hassidic Haredi and the Mitnaged Haredi actually also met together--

The news photos of the above are all delightful--especially if you like photos of beautiful black hats.

We talked and wondered how it is possible that every American Jew has not visited in Israel--at least once.  I am really thinking about what is the basis for the attachment of an American Jew to Israel. 

For me Jewish peoplehood is a basic ingredient of Jewish religious life.  "God, Torah and Israel are one"  (Zohar )  I am drawn to this mystical teaching.  Israel is Jewish peoplehood writ large across the globe.  Land is homeland--this land.  The deep feeling that our people have come home here overwhelms me here every day and moves me deeply.

We went to Shabbat services last night at the neighborhood shul-- The attraction of Orthodox Judaism remains way beyond me.  There were maybe 150 people there--not a bad crowd--but for the center of Tel Aviv?  This is a radically secular city.